Measure twice, cut HOW many times?

My sister and a couple of her friends commissioned me to make a jean style jacket for another friend's new baby. They wanted a size two (to grow into), and for it to have a hood so you'd see some of the very cute lining they'd chosen. No problem I said, and began by drafting a hood from Aldrich and using that as a guide to graft on the hood from Jalie 2795, which I really like.

I was not happy with the height of my draft, and added height to the Jalie hood. Fortunately I have a pretty good size two fit model at hand and he was most obliging in modelling for me and allowing me to photograph the results as I tweaked the pattern.

Here's toile #3, mostly covers his head, but still pulling up the back and not coming far enough forward.

And toile #4, finally happy with it after redrawing the back neckline to make it sit lower and further forward.

Very concerned about WHY my original draft was so short when I've always had great success drafting from Aldrich I consulted all my other drafting texts, to no avail, before going back to Aldrich and my original draft and re-checking my work (which I do as I go, meticulously). Yup, I'd mis-measured the height of my hood while drafting. Once that was corrected it looked much better. Just out of interest I toiled it.

Toile #5. Perfect. At this point I swore a bit.

That one mistake in the drafting process (still don't know HOW I did that) led to an untold amount of work later. And to add insult to injury I like the basic hood better than my grafted Jalie, so I'm going with that after All.That.Work.

Lessons learnt:

1) If a draft looks wrong, check it from the beginning till you find out why.

2) Be sure of a draft before you use it to establish a design.

3) Toiles of questionable designs are invaluable as a learning tool.

I knew the last one anyway, but I would so much rather waste time and a bit of calico working this out than the nice fabric my sister and her friends bought and still end up with a too-small hood.

The Jinx Dress

I don't name my creations as a rule, but some acquire a moniker as I go along. This is most definitely the Jinx Dress. It felt like the entire process was jinxed from the get go! Looks pretty innocuous doesn't it?

I am very pleased with the fern, but I would prefer it a little lower I think.

Yet another item created from other people's discards. In this case, cast off jeans from David and my BIL. Worn through in the butt so they weren't worth mending, the legs were good enough to piece into this dress. After I got over this hurdle.

Once I persuaded Nicholas that it would be much more comfy to snuggle on the sofa I was able to cut the pieces from the jeans. And then they fought being made in every way!

My worst problem was when I sewed the dress shoulder seams and facing shoulder seams, joined the pieces at armholes and necklines with the intention of turning them right side out through the shoulders before sewing side seams and finishing armholes. The point at which I realised I had not turned the dress right side out was after sewing and overlocking both side seams and doing two rows of topstitching on one of them. Yep, said some bad words.

I had multiple thread hassles - not enough topstitching thread (I had some more in a different brand which was close enough that I figured to h*** with it, it's not for sale and open to public scrutiny!), running out of bobbin thread 10cm from the end of the last row of hem stitching, and most intriguingly, going to the ironing board to give the completed hem a final press and finding a section of hem with no bobbin thread. I assume it broke and somehow caught up a new loop, but I've never had that happen before! I had limited topstitching thread for the hem so I couldn't just redo the whole thing (which I would prefer) and it has so many starts and stops in it! The teeth were gritted so hard by this point I expect the surfaces are flat.

Anyway, it was always intended to be a trial, to be worn by Isabella. Good sturdy Kindy dress which cost nothing but my time. Here's her verdict.

And here's my last teeth-gritting realisation.

It's more obvious in real life that the denims for back and front are too different. The back is heavier, which I don't mind, but it's blue blue while the front is made from two pairs which were more black blue. Damn! I like the original side seams on the back pieces but after the dress was made and on her the glaring difference in tone between front and back jumped out at me. Next time I should have some of each fabric in the front and the back if the contrast is too great.

Repeat to self: it cost nothing but my time, it's for kindy, it'll be covered in paint in five minutes, she loves it......

Showing my roots

No, not the ever-increasing collection of grey ones on my head, these roots:

My Mum is English, as is my paternal grandfather, but really that's just an excuse for the fact that I've always liked the Union Jack (which I vaguely recall hearing on a Dr Who episode is really the Union Flag unless it's at sea) as a graphic image. And I like how it looks on clothes. The NZ flag is a Union Jack in the corner of a navy blue flag, so it's pretty much my flag too. The idea of appliqueing the flag onto a simple dress has been percolating for a while, and yesterday was the day.

This one is for Isabella. I'm trying out my size four A-line dress block on her(104cm height). As she won't be four till May, I'm very happy with how this fits her. The slight rise at the armhole edge of her left shoulder is the most obvious sign that the dress is a bit big, and within my "I can live with it" tolerance. She is a very enthusiastic and willing model.

But "stand still" pretty much doesn't register at all. That blur to the left of her visible leg in the pic below is her other leg.

Being the stickler for accuracy that I am I didn't want my Union Jack to be reminiscent of the flag, I wanted it to be precisely correct in it's proportions. (Yeah, accuracy in proportion is one thing, colour is another!) It took three seconds on Google to find how to accurately draw the flag, and from there I made a full-scale diagram on a full-front pattern outline. The photo is a bit faint, sorry.

Detail.

After cutting the fabric strips and stitching them on the front looked like this.

I spent as much time with the iron as I did with the machine I think - making sure all the fabrics were perfectly wrinkle free before marking and cutting the strips (with scissors because I keep forgetting to get new rotary cutter blades) and after applying each strip, none of which are fused in any way. Not to have pressed every time would have invited distortions, which would magnify with each successive layer. If you want to know more about why pressing is so essential, go read the Pressinatrix.

I could reduce the thickness of the appliqued layers by stencilling the red areas onto a single cut out of the white areas, which I think would be sensible for smaller sizes.

Alabama Chanin #3

After an estimated 80 hours work, all by hand, here it is.

What, the sunshine is too bright to show it up? Sorry, I'll go inside.

Is this better?

Profile shot. My only alteration to the pattern (from the Alabama Stitch Book, corset top pattern, size S) was to lower the hem at the front so it's more level with the back.

Gratuitous parting shot of the twins being cute. I swear if I hadn't given birth to them I would NOT believe they are twins!

The first casualty

Remember these guys?

This morning Isabella handed me this.

The white patches at neck and butt are stuffing. On the bright side the twins love the mice. On the not-so-bright side they had a tug of war over this one. With bitter irony, it's me. I'm too battered to repair, so I'll have to make myself again.

To cheer myself up I photographed my injuries on my Alabama Chanin corset top, which I am now starting to seam together! Over his Christmas break David has been helping my wonderful brother in law on our bathroom renovation. My job is to keep the twins out of their hair, and with water turned off for the whole day a couple of times, housework possibilities were limited (yeah, hard I know) so I did get through quite a lot of the beading and running stitching this week, in short bursts between twin wrangling. Should be wearing it soon!

Other peoples cast offs

There seems to have been a theme to my sewing lately - everything I've made has been whipped up in double quick time from fabric I have acquired from someone else's stash reduction. Exhibit 4) (or 5, or whatever) A much needed pair of togs for Isabella. Keely has been in major decluttering mode and gave me some cast off fabric to rummage through. A small piece of this swimsuit fabric jumped out and yelled "Isabella needs some togs! Dunedin has just had it's driest December since records began in 1913!" I hadn't found any I liked on my one attempt to do so, so whipped these up. Size four bottoms are perfect, but I had to add extra strips to the sides and a band at the bottom on the top to make it big enough. There was only just enough fabric to eke them out! Pattern is KS2884, which appears to be out of print. Shame - it's a great basic two piece bathing suit pattern.

She needed them to wear while doing this.

And another friend decluttered this from her house to mine.

My very own, much longed for treadle sewing machine. It was painted this colour when she got it, and I suspect that returning it to its original appearance is going to be a fair bit of work.

I had a very quick go at sewing with it, and to my delight, it goes! The mechanism moves freely and it forms stitches. The tension was WAY out of whack, but I was very restrained and went back to the tog sewing instead of spending all evening playing. Its time will come....

Oh, and I've just started the LAST piece of my Alabama Chanin corset top. Another couple of weeks should see it done, depending on distractions.

New dress for MEEEEE!!!!!

When people know that you sew, they give you stuff. The fabric for this dress came from my very lovely Mother In Law (and I'm not just sucking up because I'm going to tell her about this post - she really is fantastic!). She had been given it to find it and some of it's mates a good home. And I took one look at this (70's ?) scenery print on something completely devoid of natural fibre and it screamed MAKE ME INTO BURDA 10/09 #119! (Many many thanks to Sewingelle for pointing out the Burda archives!). So I did.

My trusty assistant overseeing proceedings.

I am really pleased with how this turned out, with the possible exception of where the pleats are released. The fabric is very thin and both it's lack of body and tendency to be see through led me to underline it (in the ubiquitous red lining - the dress looks gold when light shines through it!) and while that is perfect for the rest of the dress it makes the area below the pleats a bit poofy. I am trying to decide whether or not I care. Edgestitching the pleats would flatten them, but I don't want to do that. I also don't want to sharply press them, so I'm wearing it today to see what I think. So far, not bothered.

In addition to underlining it I added 4cm to the length (I hate my knees) and scooped out a chunk of neckline as I'm not a fan of a high neckline on myself. Other than that, straight from the pattern.

So once again a project which wasn't even on the horizon a short time ago is made and being worn. I suspect I have sewing ADD.

Four down...

... four to go. Progress on my latest Alabama Chanin corset top currently stands here.

I would like to finish it by Christmas, but I keep getting side tracked by the urgent need to make things like this:
Owl from here. (I saw an owl ornament somewhere with antlers, so naturally added them to mine.) Fox very liberally adapted from here. Star from a magazine. Bird from several places.

Oh, and Cayden needs some clothes. I've also photographed his bass (front and back) which I'm going to print out and laminate so mini Cayden has real Cayden's actual bass! I really do amuse myself. The idea and tutorial which I've adapted for this is from the brilliant Jodie of Ric Rac. (The tutorial is on her sidebar)

Some of the mouse family need clothes too, and they need a house.

At least the advent calendar is pretty much ready to go. I just need to apply the embellishments, some sewn and some (eep!) glued. I'm avoiding having to glue stuff.

Christmas is less than a month away. No pressure then.

My turn,my turn!

As is so typical for me, this isn't one of the umpteen trillion queued projects waiting to make it to the head of the list. A few days ago it wasn't on the horizon, and here it is already finished.

I was looking for a different pattern (which I found) and this one was in the same box. I'd traced it from a Burda mag I borrowed from the library and forgotten it! I knew immediately that my dear friend J would love it too (we have very similar taste, so she's hugely fun to shop with!) and I excitedly tried to find it on the Burda archives to email her a pic. They only go back two years, so no luck for her, or to link to here. (I had to get it from the stacks at the library so I can trace one in J's size). For the record, it's Burda 02/2009, #129.

This is unusual for me, as I'm not a frilly, bow-y person, but this spoke to me. The fabric is a mystery synthetic intended for something else but willingly sacrificed for a wearable muslin. I'm very happy with the fit, but next time I'll spend more time on the front neckline to snug it it a bit. I did have to chop 10cm out of the neckline elastic (I hate unpicking three-step zigzag) and the sleeve elastic is a tad snug, but bearable.

Verdict: Broke the drought and scored a win!

Actual garment sewing. Just not for me.

When inspiration strikes I've learned to just go with it. That was the case with this - three remnant pieces of broderie anglais edged dobby voile. It jumped up and down and told me it'd be perfect made as the Oliver + S ruffled halter. (Available as a free download here).

The broderie edges are on the top ruffle, bottom ruffle, and back. (Trying to photograph a three year old is challenging enough without worrying about actually showing the details!).

Speaking of the back, I'm not a fan of halters for kids because they seldom sit nicely so I made this more like pillowcase style by making the back from the same pattern piece as the front and cutting a facing to match.
Isabella is gratifyingly pleased with it, and when I showed it to her delightedly squealed "You made a pretty top for MEEE!!!". Her training is coming along nicely.

Keely, this is your fault

Well, yours and Lara's for getting to craft night and asking me if I knew how to crochet a granny square. And then if I could show you. The feel of hook in hand after quite a few years got me inspired to make the crochet roses I've been pinning.

My first attempt. Slightly more open than the original, and it looks pretty naff in variegated acrylic, but you can bet your life there will be more, in the pretty pink yarn I have lying around waiting for a project. And I have three more patterns on my desk to try as well. Because I have sooooooooo much spare time and need another hobby. Thanks ladies!

And on the subject of pinning, Georgia absolutely loved this penguin and made these three all by herself. She's going to make one for each of the family to put on the tree this year.

This weekend we're having the neighbourhood girls over to make felt ornaments as a group. I sincerely can't wait - indoctrinating the next generation in the ways of making stuff.

No excuses!

So a few weeks ago I took up running again, after about a twenty year lay off. I'd given up because it became inconvenient, rather than due to injury or hating it! Hugely inspired by my fabulous friend J, who has dedicated herself this year to her health and getting fit. Running a half marathon fit. I go to the gym regularly, but don't do a lot of cardiovascular exercise, so decided to start running. Which of course required appropriate kit. After buying good shoes I only needed a sweatshirt/jacket for the days I walk the twins to kindy and then run from there, or when it's cooler. (I live in Dunedin. Cooler is always a distinct possibility.) So I made this. I call it the No Excuses jacket because it's function is to prevent me from having an excuse not to go! It's Jalie 2795, made from cotton sweatshirting.


It's perfect - nice long sleeves to keep my wrists warm, a hood that sits nice and flat, close fit through the body so I don't have excess fabric bunching around the place, room through the chest/shoulders for a complete range of motion swinging my arms. The only change I made to the pattern was to add a zip to one pocket so I can take my phone and house key without worrying about losing them. I've worn it twice, and it works really really well.

Progress on the latest Alabama Chanin corset top is slow, as expected, but steady. I've got this far so far.

And I've still got an increasingly worried eye on Christmas. Mostly because a so-called friend helpfully reminded me that I needed the advent calendar by December 1. Which is not that far away! And Cayden (for whom I'm making a doll of himself) has only a couple of weeks left of school, after which it'll be harder to work on anything I don't want him to see. So today I made a trial version, using one of the failed photo printing efforts. To very simply transfer my sewing line to the fabric I just pinned a paper copy of it to two layers of fabric, lining up the face, and sewed through the paper. Afterwards I just had to tear it out - easy!
Trimmed and turned through he looks like this:
I'm pretty satisfied with that, so now I can make the real one and stuff him. Which I'm going to enjoy. Then make him some clothes.

And the advent calendar now has pockets. Some finished, some still needing fused appliques to be stitched down.

So yeah, been doing stuff.

In the meantime....

So far the first (of eight) pieces looks like this:

So in complete contrast to a very very long slow project is this - cut out a week or two ago, but sewn together last night and this afternoon.

Front, collar and sleeves: Jalie 2919. (And my assistant. Can't do much without his input.)

Back: Vogue 1061.
Nothing wrong with either pattern as they stood, but I never wore my Vogue one - turns out I don't like cardigans which can only be worn closed. I gave it to a friend, who looks a lot better in it than I did anyway, so we're both happy!

It came to me in a dream

Almost literally. At craft night last night I got the typical hard time for scarcity of posting, and I cited my typical queue of projects awaiting thread, interfacing or something. One of the projects was this one - awaiting inspiration. My third Alabama Chanin corset top. I found some cotton T shirts on sale in Kmart for $2 each a few weeks ago and got a couple to use as the basis for the top. The thought of white on white has been percolating for a while, and I had a rose stencil chosen, but I wasn't sure how to proceed. I didn't really want to follow the freezer paper and paint route because I didn't want to introduce another colour. One idea I'd had was this - draw on the roses with a water soluble pen which I could subsequently wash out.

And last night I dreamed vividly that this is exactly what I did, and stitched in white. Oh, and in my dream there were some beads too. So of course this morning as soon as I could I got to work. Another eighty hour top. I really like the idea of some beading. I still have some of the beads from my wedding dress left over....

Ok girls - can you guess what'll be coming to the next few craft nights with me? (As long as I get more thread)

Modern Pattern Design PDF

They say it's not what you know, but who you know, and that is so true! Keely sent me a text alerting me to Pam's blog, which had a link to Michou's blog, in which she has made available a downloadable pdf of Harriet Pepin's highly regarded 1942 book "Modern Pattern Design". Since I'd spent a bit of time enjoying it on Vintage Sewing Info before that site sadly vanished, I was delighted, and raced off to acquire my copy. (THANK YOU MICHOU!)

Sadly for me the chapter on childrens wear was not included, but somewhere in the back of my mind I remembered seeing a link on a blog somewhere at some point in the past in which the author had found the Vintage Sewing Info site using a search engine which finds pages as they appeared at some point in the past. (It's called Wayback but that didn't pop back into the memory, as I had never heard of it previously). A minute or two with google popped up Magdamagda Design Studio and her post on the subject. And here is the whole book. Et Voila - I had all the information again!

I am incredibly grateful to all the people who have pointed to these resources, which are fantastic. I love the internet.

And because I prefer posts with photos I'll end with this extremely blurry shot of Nicholas. He had gone into the kitchen and was suspiciously quiet. Upon investigation I found this - he had got the bowl from the cupboard, milk from the fridge, poured it and put the bottle back (lid on and everything) and got a couple of biscuits which he was happily stirring with a spoon. Apparently he was making a pikelet sandwich.